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5th January 2007

Location: Tripoli, Libya
Distance Travelled: 19 300 km

The odyssey entered new territory as for the first time on this journey we spent a full week in one place. We enjoyed the week of Christmas laid up at our Red Sea resort, reading, sunbathing, being merry and getting run over by dump trucks. That’s right, in a dark twist to the holiday season we almost lost one of the bikes, but luckily nobody was hurt in the incident.

Nic was doubling Juls through the suprisingly quiet resort town of Ras Sudr as they were picking up a few supplies to take back to the hotel for christmas dinner. Following a loaded earth moving truck through town Nic had to slam on the brakes as the truck in front decided to come to a unexpected screaming halt. Breathing a sigh of relief as they stopped about a metre from the rear of the truck, the boys respite turned to terror as the truck driver started backing up! (no brake lights or reverse lights) Juls jumped off the bike and started yelling at the driver as Nic attempted to wheel the bike out of the way, but the truck was moving quickly and the bike toppled, Nic fell and the truck came to a halt atop the front wheel, inches from Nic’s trapped leg.

In consolation for mashing up his bike and almost squashing him, the truck driver gave Nic a hug and kiss on the cheek, then was back on his way. Merry Christmas. Thankful that nobody was hurt, we had to send Nic and the bike back to Cairo early to have the front forks welded and try to get it back into a road worthy state. So a drama filled last few days on the Red Sea ended as we reunited again in Cairo, Nic with a partially repaired bike the front wheel still buckled but ready to ride on! Time was starting to press again, so we made a beeline for Libya: Three weeks to get to London.

We hit the Mediterranean for the first time and the closeness of Europe hit home, we could almost smell the lasagna wafting across from the northern shores. Our route passed through Alexandria and a number of small seaside towns as we headed for the commonwealth war memorial and cemetery at El Alamien. Wandering around the memorial was a very emotional experience, if we had been born sixty years earlier we would have also been here, but to fight not to holiday. We paid our respects to the glorious dead and located the graves of several family and friends.

New Years Eve and we were at the Libyan border, we rendezvoused with our Libyan travel agent who took care of all the paper work we needed to get through - a welcome relief after the debacle of Egypt. A chilly drive into the Libyan desert and we were ready to welcome in the new year. Not in typical style though as Libya is an alcohol free zone so the boys managed a big sober count down and celebration as 2007 dawned in the peaceful desert.

Several big days ride towards Tripoli were halted with more bike troubles. This time the rear wheel bearing on Juls’ bike decided that it was time to join a scrap heap. After waving down a truck carrying a massive front end loader, we managed to strap the bike on and get a lift to the city of Misratah. In a triumph of the African spare parts network Juls was able to locate and replace the rear bearings within two hours. Keeping our record of never being delayed by a breakdown for more than one day in tact!

Onwards to one of the premier tourist attractions of Libya, the ancient city of Leptis Magna. The City was a major centre in Roman times which was abandoned in the 5th century AD, covered in sand and then discovered recently in a remarkable state of preservation. Due to Libya heavily controlling tourism we were able to wander around the remarkable Basilicas, theatre, baths and other sites with only a scattering of others around. I guess it is one of the benefits of being a tourist in a rogue state.

The latest stop on the odyssey’s itinerary is Tripoli, the Libyan capital. We are staying here at the international school with our old high school teacher Brett MacDonald and his wife Barbara. A big thank you to both of them for their very kind hospitality. This is an example to everyone of why you should be kind to your school teachers. In a weeks time we will finally leave the shores of Africa, and embark on the final dash across Europe to the arrival party in London. It is sad to think that this adventure is almost over but exciting to think that we might actually make it! Touch wood…

Cairo to Tripoli Images

Chronicle blurp

The wind blew and the temperature dropped as we drew closer to the northern hemisphere winter. After relaxing at Ras Sudr over the christmas week we gassed it from there to meet up with Nic and his newly welded front suspension and buckled front wheel, after him and Juls were backed over by a dump truck. Traffic was intense and we had extra woolen undergarmets on that Santa had provided for the lads. Passing through Alexandria along the coast to Libya was a breeze, literally. We travelled for 5 consecutive nights in a row with scattered showers during the days. Cold stuff. Libya was a breath of fresh air after the perpeptual nagging we received from Egyptian locals. The friendly Libyans got us over the border and into the desert with friendly smiles waves and requests to help us along the way. After a casual New Years eve in the desert we gapped across the straightest road known to man in fine form. Juls lost 9 teeth in his rear sprocket, no matter that was changed in a hotel lobby. The next day proved difficult with many kms to travel and the wheel bearing blowing out on the red Dominator. Nic and Juls hitched a ride part way to Tripoli with their bikes strapped next to a front end loader, meeting the others by chance later that evening. Leptis Magnus showed off its glory as the 2nd oldest city in the world before meeting up with the McDonalds from Whakatane in Tripoli!